When I got my first car, I knew nothing – I mean absolutely nothing – about cars. All I knew was that I needed to keep it full of gas and that I should get the oil changed according to the sticker in my windshield. I remember going to the oil change for the first several years (yes, several!) and having no idea what kind of oil to put in my car. The guy would ask which weight I wanted and I had no clue what he was even talking about. I didn’t know anything about weight, grade, or manufacturers. If I had a good mechanic, I should not have had to. However, here’s a very basic run-down of a very complicated aspect of your vehicle’s regular maintenance. Hopefully it will save you from some of the confusion I had as a young vehicle owner.
I recently shared information on finding the proper gasoline for your vehicle, and while there are very specific regulations in place for fuel grades, this is not true for engine oil. The science behind engine oil is rather complex and, while Andrew is really good at explaining it to those who want to know, it goes over my head even though I’ve heard it a hundred times before. Here are the bare basics as I understand it. Please get in touch with Andrew if you are interested in a more detailed explanation.
The Bare Basics on Motor Oil Grade and Weight
The American market for motor oil offers oil grades labeled as “conventional,” “synthetic blend,” and “synthetic.” Conventional grade motor oil is derived directly from crude oil. Synthetic grade motor oil is refined conventional oil that is distilled and broken down into a cleaner product, which is a good thing for your vehicle’s engine. But don’t just go by the label. What you see is not necessarily what you get, as many times what the label says is purely for marketing purposes and what is labeled as “synthetic” may actually be a synthetic blend of varying degrees.
In addition to the grade is the oil weight, or viscosity, of the oil. The weight of the oil you use in your vehicle should always be the same. For example, you don’t use 5W30 one time and then 5W20 the next oil change. The only exception is if you live in a climate that gets below freezing on a regular basis. In that instance, you would use a different weight (as directed in your Owner’s Manual) during those months than the months that are regularly above freezing.
Confused? It’s ok. Look in your owner’s manual and stick with what weight and grade your vehicle’s manufacturer formulates (i.e. If you have a Toyota and your vehicle’s manual says to use 5W30 weight, use Toyota 5W30 oil), but don’t hesitate to talk to your mechanic about cost effective options of equal or greater quality keeping in mind that not all oil is created equally. This is why it’s important to have a mechanic whom you can trust to do quality work with quality products.
It’s Not Just About Oil
The good news about the confusing marketing ploys of the oil industry is that we don’t rely on the oil grade alone to keep your vehicle in good condition. Another important aspect of changing your vehicle’s oil is also changing the engine oil filter. By replacing the filter with a new properly fitted high quality filter each time you change your oil, you are ensuring removal of any debris from the oil before it gets into your engine. As with the oil, be sure the filter is the proper size and a quality equal to or better than the filter that the manufacturer designed for the vehicle.
Proper installation is also important. A lot of people think that changing oil is a rather simple process once getting the proper oil and filter. However, the number of times we’ve seen vehicle’s in our shop with oil drain plugs and oil filters that were improperly installed into the vehicle is surprising. These issues don’t just come up with DIYers, but also improperly trained mechanics (be wary of anywhere that promises fast and cheap – you get what you pay for). This can cause costly damage to the vehicle, so it’s worth it spend a little now to save a little later by having a professional whom you trust do the work.
The Importance of Oil Change Intervals
One final note on engine oil – you can use the highest quality oil and filter installed by a professional trusted mechanic but still risk damage to your engine if you do not adhere to a proper interval between changes. Just because the bottle says you can go longer between oil changes, doesn’t mean that it’s a good idea to do so.
The interval will vary based on the make and model of your vehicle and your driving conditions. Each vehicle manufacturer offers a range of mileage acceptable for your specific vehicle. You’ll want to stick to the lower end of the range if you are taking a lot of short trips (5 minutes or so) or driving in a lot of heavy stop and go traffic (like downtown city driving). You can stretch to the upper end of the range if you do a lot of long trips, like on long stretches of highway. It’s always better to use a mileage interval than a time interval for this reason. But don’t just guess, talk to a trusted mechanic about your driving conditions and he or she can help you determine what an appropriate interval is for your vehicle. The good news is that newer vehicles often have an oil quality indicator which is generally pretty accurate – when you get to about 15% quality, it’s time to make an appointment for an oil change.
There is a lot of information about oil out there – some of it is accurate and some is not and it’s a lot to sort through. Believe me, just researching it gave me a headache! This is why having a mechanic you trust and have a relationship with is important for maintaining for vehicle well. Just like eating a healthy balanced diet is important for our overall health and well-being, using the right oil is also important for the health and wellbeing of your vehicle. If you trust the expert (your mechanic) and invest wisely in putting the right stuff in your vehicle now, you’ll get a better and longer life out of your vehicle down the road.
-From The Mechanic’s Wife
A friend recently sent me a photo of the gas options offered at a fueling station and said, “Help! Which one do I use?” There were FIVE options at that particular pump. No wonder she was confused. I have since spent a lot of time researching different gas grades and I finally have an answer for her. What is the right answer for you?
The budget conscious vehicle owner wants to do the right thing to make their car last as long as possible without spending more than they need to. On the other hand, the motor-heads among us may want the highest grade of care no matter the financial output. Whichever category you may fall into, we want to help you make good decisions for your vehicle and your budget when it comes to the gas you use.
Gasoline, Octane, and Power
When you go to the pump, you know there’s going to be at least two or three options of fuel grades to put in your vehicle – Regular, Premium, and one or more grades in-between. For the budget conscious you may not even think about it and immediately reach for the Regular. Others of you may think, “I want the best!” and proudly reach for the Premium. But have you ever wondered if you should make a different choice – especially when you have as many as FIVE grades of fuel to choose from? What’s the difference and does it matter?
The difference comes down to octane, put simply, the measure of compression of the fuel before it ignites. Of course it’s much more complex than that, but what you need to know is that the numbers you see on the fuel grades (i.e. 87, 89, 93 etc…) represent the level of octane of the fuel. Basically, the higher octane level, the faster the engine will be able to get from 0 to 60mph.
It may seem like the higher the octane, the better for your vehicle, right? Well, maybe…or not necessarily. It really depends on your vehicle’s engine, not how fast you want to go (regardless, you want to drive safely, so flooring your accelerator isn’t the best idea for your vehicle or your safety). High performance vehicles require higher octane levels, while most vehicles you see around town require lower levels. Being as that the lower the octane, the less expensive the gas, that’s good news for most of you!
While your vehicle most likely takes the lowest octane level, please talk to us (or another mechanic you trust) if you are unsure. I would especially encourage you to contact us before you start experimenting with anything beyond your usual selection, especially if you are noticing an issue with your car or truck.
Just beware of judging a pump by it’s label, though. Just because a fuel station offers the level of gasoline you want, doesn’t mean you are putting quality fuel in your tank. A study on Top-Tier gasoline discovered which stations meet the top standards of fuel. These retailers sell Top-Tier gas that provides better driveability and fuel economy.
Not Just Octane
One more important thing to consider when filling up your tank is the matter of when you fill it up. Letting it get to empty and “running on fumes” every time you pull up to the pump can cause issues with your engine. It’s best to fill up before you get to “E”. If I’m driving by a gas station and have time to stop when my tank is half full, I try my best to do so. Otherwise, I usually make sure to fill up at no less than a quarter tank.
Engine issues aside, it’s super inconvenient to run out of gas when you are nowhere near a gas station. This happened to me when Andrew and I were dating. I had to call him in the middle of the night and he came to my rescue. I was so embarrassed. No one likes to do the walk of shame to the pump with a portable gas tank…especially if you’re trying to impress someone special!
-From The Mechanic’s Wife
On every corner of every street in every city across the country, you will find an automotive mechanic. Each has his own reason for going into the industry. Each has his own reason for staying in the industry (not an easy thing to do!). Each has his own training and experience from which each takes away his own skills, his own ability, his own work ethic, and his own ambitions. At the end of the workday, they’ve all been servicing vehicles. They are all mechanics. Or is that all they are? Continue reading “The Difference Between a Mechanic and a Craftsman” »
Expecting the Unexpected
In this series so far I’ve covered why you should consider driving your car to 300,000 miles and how to maintain it well. In this final post, I want to share some advice on how to deal with inevitable unexpected repairs.
You’ve just been having a blast hanging out with friends. Now you are on your way home, pumping your jams, just taking in the moment of the good time you’ve had today when you hear an awful noise coming from your vehicle. Suddenly, the atmosphere in the car changes. You love this car! It’s your baby! It’s gotten you through college and job promotions, maybe even a job demotion, and you aren’t ready to give up on her yet.
Sometimes the hardest part of making a vehicle last is making the difficult decision to spend a significant amount of money to keep it running. It really helps if you are prepared to expect the unexpected, and here’s how.
Continue reading “Driving 300,000 Miles Takes More Than An Oil Change: Part 3” »
Remembering the Basics
In part one of this series, I explained why you should consider driving your car for 300,000 miles and beyond. This article includes some practical tips on how to stay on top of the general maintenance of your vehicle.
What Should I Consider Regarding Auto Maintenance?
Continue reading “Driving 300,000 Miles Takes More Than An Oil Change: Part 2” »
What’s the Point?
As a nineteen year old college student, my parents helped me buy my first car. My dad and I did a lot of research and he wanted his first-born daughter to be safe 4 ½ hours away from home. Being a Chrysler family, we finally settled on a brand new Dodge Neon.
How ignorant I was to believe that once the sale was final, all I needed to worry about was gas, oil changes, and insurance! When the repairs got to be too overwhelming for me, even though I LOVED the Neon, I traded it in for a used PT Cruiser with lower mileage. That car, too, eventually needed repairs while still paying off the loan. I still miss my Neon.
More than a decade later, and the wife of a mechanic, I live with astute awareness of what it takes to keep a car running. Andrew and I now drive fully paid-off vehicles – a 1998 Chevy Prizm with just over 100,000 miles on it and a 1994 Toyota Corolla with almost 175,000 miles under its belt. We hope to still be driving those cars at 200,000 miles, and most likely 300,000 (by then, they will surely be classics!).
I now know that the sale price of the vehicle is not the only investment. By also investing in truly maintaining my car, I can keep it running smoothly through 300,000 miles or more.
So, why should I consider investing in my vehicle to 300,000 miles or more?
Continue reading “Driving 300,000 Miles Takes More Than An Oil Change: Part 1” »